Where is the line that demarcates the sensible from the foolish? Ask most Mountain Climbers whey they do what they do and they will usually quote Sir Edmund Hillary's famous line "Because it was there." And although that is true it cannot every truly describe or capture the passion that drives them to accomplish what appears to be foolish.
I've had the opportunity to meet, listen and sometimes climb with some incredible rock climbers and mountaineers. Sadly, I have also read in the news that they latter had died in a accident on some mountain or rock climb.
The decision to explore the unknown and climb the highest peaks has inherent dangers that can never be ignored. But those dangers are not an excuse to avoid the possible experience, knowledge and even spiritual gains that the mountains can offer us. So where do we need to "draw the line"? That "line" will be different for each of us, but do not make the mistake and think the line does not exist. I like the way Edward Wymper explained it and I have offend thought about it while I was making a decision in while out in the back country (and sometimes at home also).
"The line which separates the difficult from the dangerous is sometimes a very shadowy, but it is not an imaginary, one, It is sometimes passed unconsciously, and the consciousness that it has been passed is felt too late. But if the doubtful line is crossed consciously, deliberately, one passes from doing that which is justifiable to doing that which is unjustifiable."
I highly recommend the movie "Meru", find the opportunity to watch it with a group of climbers. It is a great movie that I think captures the dangers and choices that we as climbers must wrestle with. Conrad Anker (I've admired this man for years.) has a lot to say about 'how far" is acceptable on a climb and how important it is to rely on your partners. Jimmy Chin, (if you are not following him on Instagram, stop reading and do that now! @jimmy_chin) has a great story about a conversation he had with his mother and how it molded his decisions on past climbs and if the danger was "acceptable".
I also found the side story (no spoilers here, go watch the movie) with Renan Ozturk, his accident, his recovery and his return are a great example of the quote by Albert Frederick Mummery,
"It is the momentary carelessness in easy places, the lapsed attention, or the wandering look that is the usual parent of disaster "
I myself had to come to realize that I needed to make some choices, years ago, when it came to my "rock-rat" lifestyle. During my college years for a few years after I spent a lot of time traveling and climbing. I did a few solo climbs (that pale in comparison to what is going on now in the Valley), Alpine climbs and back country snowboarding that began to worry my new wife. Withing the first year of marriage we had our first son and I was still pushing the edge as best as I could while holding down a job.
I soon realized that I was crossing the line "consciously" and that was a problem. I wanted to be a good husband and a good father. I had a great relationship with my father and I wanted the same with my kids. (My father died 1 week after the birth of our 4th child. He had the chance to hold her while visiting us in Colorado.) His death put a lot of things in perspective. That was the winter of 2000. I made a promise to my wife (and myself!) that I would cut back on the risk taking. My pledge went something like this, "I will not place myself in harms way, without reason, until my youngest child reached the age of 18." My reasoning? I figured at 18 at least they would have been able to get to know me and I wouldn't be leaving my wife with small children to take care of by herself. For the record our youngest, daughter, turns 18 this December (2018).
I have been hitting the gym and losing weight (go check out that vlog lol). I will be back to a good "fighting weight" by her birthday! To celebrate my new freedom?....I decided to start tackling the long process of climbing all of the 14ers in Colorado, with winter accents.
(I figure it will take a few years so if anyone wants to join me, drop me a line and see where I am on the list.)
There are about 9 peaks that will require some skills and a little "margin of luck" to summit. I can guarantee I will be recruiting some "seasoned vets" for those climbs.
So here is to the "thin-line" and knowing where it is.